The term “Palermo” derives from “Panormus” all port. Conquered by practically everyone (haha), we are the cradle of many cultures. Palermo, historic center, has 7 city gates, I will refer to some of these during the tour.
Central area (I suggest walking and there is a lot of walking). It can be done in a whole day or divided into two days, you decide whether to do it entirely.
The first thing to see in Palermo in your 3 days can only be her. This imposing church is the result of multiple hands that have followed one another over the centuries: the Byzantines, the Arabs and the Normans. The entrance portal, the apse and the terraces are magnificent (pay attention to the timetables, the last ascent is at 1.30pm). Inside the Cathedral there are also the royal tombs of Frederick II of Swabia, his wife Constance of Aragon, Henry VI, Roger II and Constance of Altavilla (they can be seen with the same ticket as the climb to the roofs).
Initially built as a fortress (9th century), this large palace was then embellished and enlarged by the Normans (of whom the Palatine Chapel and the towers remain). It then went through various periods of abandonment before being restored by the Spanish viceroys (16th century) but above all by the Bourbons (19th) who made it their royal residence. Today the Palace is the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly (ARS). Above all, not to be missed inside is the Palatine Chapel, a masterpiece in which Byzantine, Islamic and Roman elements blend, which was built by Frederick II in 1143. The gold mosaics are truly breathtaking. Also visit the Ancient Royal Apartments (closed from Tuesday to Thursday) with the crazy mosaics of the Roger Room (reminiscent of the Palatine Chapel). The gardens are also beautiful with huge ficus trees and a nice bar where you can relax among the plants (combination ticket Palace + Royal Apartments + Gardens).
In an almost hidden street a stone’s throw from Palazzo dei Normanni there is this oasis of peace that you really don’t expect. The Abbey of S.Giovanni degli Eremiti stands on the remains of an ancient mosque built by Roger II. The shapes are simple and the 5 pink domes recall those of other churches of the same period (such as S. Cataldo). The cloister immersed in the garden full of palm trees, agaves, bougainvillea and prickly pears is also very beautiful. A magical place. To have a magnificent view of the cloister and Palazzo dei Normanni you can also climb the bell tower of the nearby church of San Giuseppe Cafasso (weekends 10am-5pm). For S. Giovanni degli Eremiti there is a combined ticket also valid for Palazzo Abatellis, it lasts 3 days, and will save you something.
Close by the Quattro Canti (the square on the intersection between Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele, with 4 beautiful baroque buildings) there is one of the most beautiful squares in Palermo and among the most beautiful in Italy. Piazza Pretoria is almost completely occupied by an enormous Renaissance fountain made of steps, balustrades and water features. Around there are the monastery and the Church of S.Caterina, Palazzo Pretorio (seat of the Municipality of Palermo) and the church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini.
This church was for me the first impact with the Palermitan baroque and perhaps I still have to recover. As happened many other times during my days in Palermo, I entered an apparently anonymous place to be amazed by the beauty and richness of the interiors. The latter are made of white marble worked according to the best baroque tradition, they are heavy to die for but beautiful. Also go up to the roof from which you can enjoy a magnificent view of Piazza Pretoria and the cloister of the monastery (which was inhabited by cloistered nuns until the early 2000s). Inside the monastery there is also “cooperativa I Segreti del chiostro” where they make excellent desserts to eat there or to take away (entrance to the Church + roofs around €7).
These two churches are located in front of the monastery and the Church of St. Catherine, in the same square. As with the latter, even when you enter the Martorana you are amazed by the Byzantine mosaics probably created by the same artists who did the Palatine Chapel. In addition to these, the baroque frescoes and polychrome marble floors are also beautiful (almost all the churches in Palermo have wonderful floors). Once out of the Martorana, with a few steps you will enter San Cataldo, a very bare but truly evocative Norman-era church (entrance cost for the Martorana and San Cataldo is €1 and €1.5 respectively – discounted ticket by purchasing others for other churches/oratories).
On the opposite side of Via Maqueda there is the Ballarò district, very different from the elegant area surrounding Piazza Pretoria. This area of the city is densely inhabited and the Muslim and Jewish quarters are located here. It is a multi-ethnic neighbourhood and you will notice it straight away. The famous Ballarò market is the oldest historical market in Palermo and extends from Piazza Casa Professa to Corso Tukory. The whole area around the market is very beautiful to look at, at times it is very decadent and full of street art. In this context, the interiors of the Church of the Gesù (or Casa Professa complex, together with the college of the same name) entirely covered in stucco and semi-precious stones still stand out. Also worth seeing is the Saturday Oratory (on the 1st floor), entirely decorated by Serpotta (a sculptor and plasterer from Palermo who embellished many palaces and churches).
Kalsa is one of the neighborhoods that has changed the most in recent years, going from being a popular (and poor) neighborhood where you could almost not enter, to the neighborhood where the most prestigious museums in Palermo and the most beautiful buildings in the city are located. city (now restored to its ancient splendor). The area was almost razed to the ground during World War II, but was then slowly rebuilt. To see all the places I talk about below will take you almost 1 whole day.
This Catalan-Gothic palace is home to the Regional Gallery of Sicily, and houses sculptures and paintings from medieval times to the 17th century. The most famous pieces are the Triumph of Death (which dates back to the 15th century) and the Annunziata by Antonello da Messina (you can buy the combined ticket with S.Giovanni degli Eremiti which lasts 3 days).
Palazzo Butera is the second largest palace in Palermo after Palazzo dei Normanni and is simply spectacular. I would have stayed there forever, even barricaded inside. After years of semi-abandonment, the building was purchased by the Valsecchi (a couple of art collectors from Milan) in 2016 and the restoration began since then. Today it is possible to visit the halls on the first floor, the exhibition spaces on the ground floor, the attics and the panoramic tower. Once finished the renovation it will host a center for arts and culture and the private collection of the Valsecchi. The palace overlooks the seafront and has magnificent terraces that open onto the Mura delle Cattivi (where there is a restaurant named “Le Cattive” which can be accessed from Palazzo Butera).
The Oratorio dei Bianchi is located next to the Kalsa council houses, and is surrounded by street art. You almost don’t notice (even if the contrast with the surrounding buildings is decidedly evident). It was founded in 1542 by the Company of Cavalieri Bianchi, religious and lay men who dedicated themselves to saving the souls of those condemned to death. You go up a majestic Carrara marble staircase to reach the oratory, magnificently embellished by Serpotta, and then to the Fumagalli Hall. Free entry.
The large Magione square is among the main squares of Kalsa. Surrounded by long-abandoned buildings and churches, it has slowly been renovated and several very popular bars and clubs have opened. From the square you can also access S. Maria dello Spasimo, one of the most evocative churches in Palermo. This church is the only example of Nordic Gothic in Sicily. It was built in 1506 and the painting for its altar was even commissioned from Raphael (but today it is located in the Prado Museum, in Madrid). Even before it was finished, the church was used as a fortress, then a theatre, a hospital, a hospice for the poor and finally a hospital (until 1986). Today it is a magnificent open-air space (the roof of the central nave collapsed in the 18th century) where concerts and exhibitions are organized (entry is free). Not far from there is also Palazzo Ajutamicristo but you can only visit the courtyard at the moment.
Among the things to see in Palermo in 3 days you must include at least some of its noble palaces. Palazzo Mirto is a very luxurious palace left to the city by the Lanza Filangeri princes. A red marble staircase leads to the main floor which still retains all the original furnishings which are of immense value. Note the Chinese sitting room where the prince smoked opium (with floor and walls in Spanish leather), the luxurious Pompadour Drawing Room with walls covered in silk, the Baldachin Room and the ancient stables with vintage sedan chairs and carriages. The ticket costs €6 and there is a guided tour of the main floor included.
If you love botanical gardens like me, you can’t miss the one in Palermo. Founded way back in 1789, it is a true oasis of peace in the chaos of the city and is full of very rare oriental and exotic plants that have adapted perfectly to the climate of Palermo. The greenhouses (especially the Maria Carolina greenhouse) and the pool with water lilies and bamboos are also beautiful. It is really well kept (entrance fee around €6).
Located near the ancient port, it was in this neighborhood that merchants gathered to exchange goods from other maritime cities (Pisa, Amalfi, Genoa, etc.). Today the commercial soul of the area is still visible in the famous Vucciria market (whose name derives from the French boucherie) which develops around Piazza Caracciolo. Unlike the markets of Ballarò and Capo, this market has now remained more of an evening place where young people from Palermo come to eat street food or drink in one of the many clubs in the area (like the Taverna Azzurra for example).
A few steps from the Vucciria market there is also Piazza S.Domenico with the church of the same name, another of the things to see in Palermo if you have at least 3 days available. The Church of San Domenico represents the Pantheon of Palermo, in fact all the illustrious characters rest here: Serpotta, Rosolino Pilo, Vincenza Florio and Giovanni Falcone. Behind the church there are two oratories that are absolutely worth seeing: the Oratory of S.Domenico and that of S.Cita, both embellished by the works of Serpotta. In the Oratory of S.Domenico there is a beautiful Madonna of the Rosary by Van Dyck. The Oratory of S.Cita is considered Serpotta’s greatest masterpiece with a riot of cherubs (entrance fee is around €5 to see both; the ticket also gives you a discount to see the Martorana and S.Cataldo).
The Teatro Massimo is one of the most important European opera houses and is the 3rd largest in Europe in size. The facade is neoclassical while the interiors are in Liberty style; the galleries are decorated with flower-shaped lamps, all different from each other. The Pompeian Room is magnificent which serves as a foyer and the terraces from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city (entrance with a 30′ guided tour – the 1st visit is at 9.50am then every 40-50′ – cost €10 or €20 with the terrace).
Of the 4 historic markets in the city, the Mercato del Capo is the one that has remained the most authentic. The market starts from Porta Carini and continues on the street of the same name and on via Beati Paoli. At the beginning of Via Carini don’t miss the beautiful baroque Church of the Immaculate Conception. Another place that you won’t give a penny to from the outside, but which will reveal itself to be something completely different once inside.
This bizarre and fascinating building is located next to the Parco della Favorita (the ancient hunting reserve of Ferdinand II of Bourbon, about 6 kilometers outside the centre). The building is “Chinese” only on the ground floor, on the other floors the style is more varied with Pompeian, Ottoman or Louis XVI style rooms. It’s an incredible place that I would define as “Wes Anderson-style” (free entry). To reach the Palazzina Cinese from the center of Palermo there is bus N.645 which leaves from the Stadium.
Near the Palazzina Cinese there is the gate to reach Villa Niscemi, today the headquarters of the Public Relations Office of the Municipality of Palermo. It is adviced go in the morning and ask the ushers they will let you in. Let’s talk about another crazy villa, and the one in which Tomasi di Lampedusa set Tancredi’s house in the Gattopardo. Inside there are sumptuous halls with original furnishings, but the real show is your large terraces that open onto the garden with blue and white tiles, a dream (free entry).
The Palazzo della Zisa is part of Arab-Norman Palermo and was declared a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2015. It was built as a place of rest and entertainment in 1166 by the Norman king and is decorated in Arab style: it recalls (in a small way) the Alhambra of Granada. Inside today there is also the Museum of Islamic Art. Immediately behind there are the I Cantieri Culturali alla Zisa (formerly Officine Ducrot), in a former industrial area of Palermo, which is used as an exhibition space for theatrical, musical, cinematographic events and cultural initiatives of all kinds. Inside, among others, there is also the International Photography Center, once directed by the late Letizia Battaglia. To reach the Zisa from the center of Palermo there is bus N.124 from Piazza Verdi.
The Capuchin Catacombs are a truly particular place and, I would add, decidedly macabre, but which retains a certain charm. It is located to the west of the city and you can reach it by walking for about 15-20′ from Palazzo dei Normanni. Below the Capuchin convent there is a vast underground cemetery made up of tunnels dug in the 1500s which wind to house around 8000 mummified corpses, fully dressed. The bodies are divided by sex and social class (mummification was very expensive and took a long time to carry out), with the men usually hanging on the walls and the women lying in niches. Some are truly incredibly preserved, and among these is the body of a 2-year-old girl who appears to be asleep. The cost of the ticket is 5 euros and you cannot take photos inside. In the cemetery next to the entrance there is also the tomb of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.
Mondello is located 10 km north of Palermo and is the best-known holiday resort in the area: in summer a lot of people flocks here. The area was discovered by the Palermo upper class in the early 1900s who began building magnificent Art Nouveau style villas there, as well as the large Art Nouveau establishment located in the center of the beach. At the end of the beach, passing behind the La Torre hotel you can take a walk to reach the abandoned Capo Gallo lighthouse (a very suggestive nature reserve). Continuing further you can also reach the small fishing village of Sferracavallo. To reach Model from the center of Palermo there is bus N.806 from Piazza Sturzo.
A trip to Palermo cannot ignore a visit to the Duomo and the Cloister of Monreale. This town which is located a few km outside Palermo developed in the 12th century around the Benedictine abbey, the royal palace and the Cathedral. Nothing remains of the palace and the abbey, while the Cathedral and its cloister are perfectly preserved. The Monreale complex represents the quintessence of Arab-Norman and Byzantine art. The mosaics of the cathedral are something simply unique and perfect. The view from the terraces of the Cathedral is also beautiful, as is the Cloister, with more than 90 columns decorated with mosaics and Romanesque capitals (free entrance to the Cathedral and combined entrance for the terraces + diocesan museum + treasury + cloister). To reach Monreale from the center of Palermo there is the AST bus from the Central Station (very recommended. It has different timetables and costs €3) or the N.389 from Piazza Indipendenza (ask for all the timetables in the information offices you find around the city). To visit everything, calculate about 2h-2h30.
From practically every point in Palermo you will be able to see the silhouette of Monte Pellegrino, where the sanctuary of the city’s patron saint, S.Rosalia, is located. The sanctuary dates back to the 17th century and is located in the cave where, according to legend, the remains of the Saint were found. Continuing further along the road you arrive at a viewpoint from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of the sea. You can only get to Monte Pellegrino by private vehicle or by taking part in an excursion.
When planning the trip, please pay attention to the opening hours of the following monuments:
8 giugno 2024 – June 8th 2024
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